Saturday, 3 September 2011

The Town of Wadeye

The buildup is starting.  Last week the Top End had its hottest days this year.  Everything is dry.  No-one talks about the weather here, as each day is the same.  Well, almost.  People are starting to think towards the wet season.  There's lots to do before then.  Travel by car is impossible from November.  All the flat areas will apparently be under water.  Hard to imagine at the minute.  The red dust, dry grass and more dust tell another story.

Wadeye (the locals say "wod-air" ) has a reputation.  Like anything, no-one notices this part of the world until there is a Problem.  Sadly, the reports of the last 10 years have been stories of unrest, intervention, failed policies and unfavourable statistics.  That's not what we have seen though.  There is still Judas Priest and Evil Warriors graffiti, reminding residents of high tension, particularly between the two gangs styled on heavy metal rock bands.  While there might be unrest around the fringes, there are lots of positives happening that don't get reported.

It must have been tough at times.  If you are interested, a good article to read is:
http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/features/a-town-like-wadeye/story-e6frg8h6-1111114787006

We have heard stories of the fights on the footy oval condoned and even arranged to relieve tension.  After an 18 year old was shot by the police in 2002, troubles have flared at times.  The clinic nurses who have been around for a while tell stories of evacuations of all the white people, being confined to their houses, and frightening experiences like trying to drive the ambulance and being surrounded by 200 -300 people jostling the vehicle.  They have learnt that if the women and children go bush, they need to be alert.  We have heard from one person who counts 7 break-ins in to her home during her time here.

With all of that, each day has given a glimpse of another picture.  The way the community cares for an unpredictably psychotic man, the depth of feeling when a diagnosis of cancer comes back from the Royal Darwin Hospital, the tolerance of locals of white people representing a dominant and sometimes demanding culture.  We have spent time with one white couple who never lock their house and have never had a problem.  Yesterday we met Boniface Perdjit.  He is a Traditional Owner of the local area, and is Australia's first married Catholic deacon.  He's a gentle, wise man who mirrors peace with a twinkle in his eye.  One hardened white fella said of him that Boniface's brand of religion is almost enough to make him follow Jesus' teachings.

We are recognising people enough to have a yarn outside the store or in the street.  We're still not exactly sure what the role of doctors should be, but we are glad we are here.

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